In the Pistoia Mountains, a neccio is much more than a pancake. Made from chestnut flour, water and a little salt, it belongs to the practical cuisine of communities that learned to turn the forest into a dependable pantry. Warm, supple and gently sweet, it is usually wrapped around fresh ricotta, although older savoury pairings reveal how versatile it has always been.
1. A mountain food with a long memory
For generations, chestnuts were one of the most reliable foods in the Apennines. Trees grew on slopes where cereal farming was difficult, and their fruit could be dried, milled and stored. Chestnut flour therefore functioned as an everyday staple rather than a luxury ingredient. Necci were portable and economical: woodcutters and charcoal burners could carry them into the forest, while families used the same flour for polenta, fritters and castagnaccio.
That history explains the neccio’s character. It is simple by design, with no need for sugar, eggs or butter in the basic batter. The flour supplies its own soft sweetness and earthy aroma. Eating one in the mountains connects a visitor to the landscape in a way that a generic dessert cannot.
2. From chestnut grove to flour
The traditional process begins after the autumn harvest. Chestnuts are dried slowly in small stone-and-wood buildings known as metati, where a low chestnut-wood fire removes moisture over several weeks. Once dried, the fruit is cleaned, selected and ground. Historic mills and drying houses survive across the Pistoia Mountains, especially around the Orsigna Valley, and form part of the Ecomuseum’s Itinerary of Daily Life.
This sequence—gathering, drying, sorting and milling—turns a highly seasonal crop into flour that can last through winter. It also accounts for the ingredient’s distinctive toasted perfume. When buying a bag, look for a recent milling date and keep it cool after opening; chestnut flour contains natural oils and is more delicate than ordinary wheat flour.
3. How a traditional neccio is cooked
The classic tools are testi, pairs of long-handled wrought-iron plates heated over the fire. A thin layer of batter is pressed between them, producing a flexible round with lightly toasted marks. Modern cooks can obtain a good result with a flat non-stick or well-seasoned steel pan.
The official Visit Tuscany recipe uses 400 grams of chestnut flour, a pinch of salt, water and 500 grams of fresh ricotta. Water is added gradually until the mixture is looser than a cream. A lightly greased pan is heated, the batter is spread thinly, and each neccio is cooked on both sides. The warm pancake is then filled and rolled. The ingredient list is short, but flour quality and heat control make a noticeable difference.
4. Sweet, savoury—or somewhere between
Fresh ricotta is the best-known filling because its cool, milky flavour balances the chestnut’s natural sweetness. Some versions add honey, but a well-made neccio needs very little embellishment. The Pistoia tradition also includes savoury combinations: official local tourism sources mention sausages and anchovies, reminders that necci once served as bread as much as dessert.
When ordering, do not expect the texture of a wheat crêpe. A neccio is softer, more rustic and slightly grainy, with a flavour that moves between roasted nuts, woodland smoke and gentle caramel. It is best eaten soon after cooking.
5. When and where to look for necci
Autumn is the most atmospheric season. Chestnut groves change colour, the new harvest arrives and village gatherings often feature necci with ricotta alongside roasted chestnuts and castagnaccio. Availability is not limited to festivals, however: mountain restaurants, bakeries, agriturismi and local food shops may serve or sell them at other times.
Menus and opening days change, particularly outside weekends and high season. Ask specifically for necci con la ricotta, check before making a special journey, and treat a food festival as a welcome bonus rather than the only reason for the trip.
6. A relaxed two-day tasting plan
Day one: Pistoia and the first taste. Begin in the historic centre, where markets and food shops provide an introduction to local ingredients. Have lunch in town, then travel north toward San Marcello Piteglio or another mountain base. Look for necci as an afternoon snack or dessert and compare them with castagnaccio, which uses the same flour in a very different way.
Day two: follow the chestnut story. Spend the morning in the Orsigna area, where chestnut woods, a traditional drying house and a water-powered mill explain the labour behind the flour. Continue with an easy village walk or a visit to an Ecomuseum site, checking seasonal opening arrangements in advance. Finish with a second neccio—perhaps savoury this time—to understand how the dish once replaced bread.
A car gives the greatest flexibility between small villages. If relying on public transport, reduce the number of stops and verify the day’s timetable before leaving Pistoia.
7. Practical notes for different diets
The basic batter is made with chestnut flour, water and salt, so it contains no wheat ingredients. Cross-contamination is still possible on shared pans or work surfaces; travellers with coeliac disease or serious allergies should ask the cook directly. Ricotta contains milk, while savoury versions may include meat or fish. Request an unfilled neccio if you prefer a plant-based option, but confirm how the cooking plates are greased.
8. Bring the tradition home respectfully
Chestnut flour makes a compact and meaningful souvenir, especially when purchased from a local producer or specialist shop. At home, start with the simple recipe and resist turning it immediately into an elaborate dessert. First taste the flour, adjust the water slowly and serve the necci hot. The pleasure lies in the contrast between an austere recipe and a surprisingly complex flavour.
Above all, remember that chestnut groves are working landscapes and are often privately owned. Admire the woods from marked paths and never collect fruit without permission. Supporting local mills, producers and kitchens is the most direct way to help this mountain knowledge remain alive.
